Pet
Food
Review

Caring for your Rabbit 

The following information forms a report by the Pet Advisory Working Group and as such offers a wealth of current expertese on the selection, care and feeding of rabbits. 

Rabbits are the third most popular mammalian pet in the United Kingdom.  Various estimates of population have been made but it is likely that there are at least 1.5 million pet rabbits.  Whereas dogs and cats have a significant amount of freedom, rabbits are generally kept in restricted conditions.  Rabbits are sold by a variety of sources ranging from show rabbits through pet shops to private sales.

The assessment of welfare of an animal is frequently based on the Five Freedoms which were first adopted by the Farm Animal Welfare Council (FAWC) twenty years ago to assess welfare on farms.  The Five Freedoms are now established world wide as a means of assessing animal welfare. 

The Freedoms are:

1. Freedom from hunger and thirst

2. Freedom from pain, injury and disease

3. Freedom from discomfort

4. Freedom from fear and distress

5. Freedom to express normal behaviour

Many would argue that all too often rabbits are kept in unsuitable conditions that lead to increased incidence of disease, reduced life expectancy and generally poor welfare.  This report attempts to consider how rabbits are cared for from cradle to grave and to highlight areas where action might be taken to improve rabbit welfare.

The report has been compiled by subject matter experts drawn from PAC member organisations, from the Rabbit Welfare Trust, the British Rabbit Council (BRC), the British Small Animal Veterinary Association (BSAVA), the Pet Care Trust (PCT) and Southampton University.  PAC is very grateful for their assistance.

ENVIRONMENTAL CONSIDERATIONS, WELFARE AND BEHAVIOUR

The companion rabbit is the domestic form of the European rabbit, Oryctolagus cuniculus. Studies suggest that domestication has not altered inherent behaviour traits in this species.

The rabbit is a social, prey species that spends a large proportion of its time underground in warrens, emerging to the surface around dawn and dusk. It is then that much active social interaction occurs, though the main activity is feeding. During the breeding season (January through August in the UK in natural light conditions) territorial defence, courtship and mating are also major activities.

These general aspects of rabbit ethology need to be considered if the Freedom from fear and distress and the Freedom to express normal behaviours are to be met.

Rabbits generally live in groups of two to eight individuals, the main grouping comprising a mated pair. They have a range of means of communicating information to each other using visual, vocal and olfactory signals. They also show behaviours that strengthen relationships between group members, such as mutual grooming.

It is necessary to provide rabbits with companionship. Ideally this would be a rabbit of the opposite sex and similar size, with both members having been neutered to negate the chance of unwanted offspring and / or seasonal aggression.

If the keeping of two rabbits is not possible, then it is important that the rabbit is provided with substantial daily contact with their owners that includes petting/grooming, as well as cleaning and feeding. Such interaction should be a minimum of an hour a day.

Whatever the social situation, each rabbit should have sufficient room to have their own personal space. Boxes, pipes or other suitable objects should be provided to allow the rabbit to choose to be visually and physically isolated from its companions. Where rabbits of different sizes are kept together, this should enable the smallest to have a retreat that is not accessible by the larger animal.

Rabbits, like other companion species, need to learn about their own species and about humans. If they do not have the opportunity to do this when young they are likely to be fearful and potentially aggressive later. Most rabbits are reared with their siblings until 7 or 8 weeks old, which allows them to learn about being a rabbit. They also need to learn about people. Studies suggest that gentle handling as early as 10 days has a positive effect on the rabbit’s ease of approaching both familiar and unfamiliar people. Animals not handled until 7 weeks of age were more nervous and stressed when around people. Animals which are handled early in life not only find it easier to cope with people, but research also suggests that handled females, who are also raised with other rabbits, will have better breeding performances, possibly because they are generally less stressed.

It is important then that breeders socialise rabbits to humans as early as possible. This should be done carefully ensuring that the human smells correct, that is that his/her hands have been smoothed over the female rabbit, and the nest material has been well handled so that young and mother all smell similar. Otherwise the female may damage or abandon her young. Handling of each youngster ideally would be a couple of times a day for two or three minutes each time, ensuring that the kitten does not get chilly. For commercial breeders this may not be considered practical and this makes gentle handling and socialisation at the point of sale and immediately after sale very important. However, all rabbits destined to be companions should be socialised to ensure that they are better able to cope with interacting with people and less likely to show problematical behaviour such as fear-related aggression.

Owners should introduce their young rabbit to other members of the household, such as cats and dogs as early as possible. This needs to be done in a carefully controlled manner to ensure the safety of the rabbit. It is also important to remember that, even a well-socialised rabbit, is still a prey species and thus reactive to its surroundings.

Rabbits are a prey species that has evolved in an environment where they contribute a significant proportion of the diet of aerial, surface and underground predators. As a consequence the rabbit is very alert to potential sources of danger and avoids large open spaces, unless they have easy access to places of safety. Provision of cover and ‘bolt holes’ in runs is important to rabbit welfare.

Rabbits spend much of their time underground and are natural diggers. Provision of the opportunity to dig, be that a special digging box or merely a pile of blankets, hay or other suitable substrate, will allow the display of this natural behaviour.

In summary the recognition and understanding of the rabbit’s unique behaviour and how this relates to it being a major prey species informs the design of appropriate management systems to maintain the highest welfare standards.

ACQUISITION

The acquisition of a rabbit should be a considered decision and requires some research.  This may be achieved by talking to experts such as breeders or from a number of publications available in pet shops and public libraries.  The results of the research will indicate the possible source of a rabbit and will also govern the accommodation required.  Welfare organisations expend significant effort in promoting the requirements of keeping a rabbit and factors include the ability to provide daily care, provision of care while the keeper is on holiday and the cost of owning the rabbit which, when calculated over its lifetime, can be considerable.

It is important to obtain as much information as possible before collecting the rabbit.  Establishing whether it is a pure breed or a cross between two breeds will assist in judging the ultimate adult weight and size. It is important to know the age of the rabbit, when it was weaned and the feeding pattern that has been used.  With a young rabbit it is particularly important to know whether it is a buck or a doe. This can sometimes be difficult to establish in a young rabbit.  The provision of further information or advice should be considered normal practice by vendors.

In general it is not good practice to purchase a rabbit in responce to advertisements in newspapers.  The rabbits offered may be of poor quality and it is difficult to assess the rabbit before purchase.  If this method of purchase is chosen it is particularly important to assess the doe and preferably the buck as well so that some impression may be gained of the likely size of the offspring.

It is not easy to sex young rabbits without considerable experience.  Consequently it is not unusual for rabbits purchased through some pet shops, newspapers or infrequent breeders to be sexed incorrectly, as sexing takes considerable practice.  This may have undesirable consequences and it is advisable to have young rabbits’ sex checked when presented to the veterinary surgeon for vaccination.

Any rabbit which is being moved from one home to another is likely to be suffering from stress.  With young rabbits this is exacerbated by recent weaning and separation from the doe and litter mates, and change of housing.  In spite of this the rabbit should be bright and alert, naturally inquisitive and easy to handle.  If this is not the case it may be better to consider an alternative source.

Pet Shops and garden centres: 

Pet shops purchase rabbits from a variety of sources.  Many come from commercial breeders but smaller shops may source their stock from local hobby breeders.  The quality of stock may therefore vary considerably and it may be worth a potential purchaser seeking expert advice before purchase.  Care information should be provided and should include a summary of the feeding regime.  Staff should be sufficiently knowledgeable to be able to provide good quality care advice.

Breeders: 

Many people who show rabbits also breed and their excess stock may be sold.  Contact information may be found in specialist magazines, the internet or at rabbit shows.  Breeders generally specialise in only one or two breeds and this can be useful if research has indicated a particular type.  Breeders generally have an in depth knowledge of their breed and are often prepared to provide extensive advice.  It is better to visit the breeder to assess the quality of breeding stock as this is likely to be reflected in the offspring.  The breeder may have a variety of age rabbits available and advise on what is likely to suit a novice purchaser best.

Agricultural Shows: 

Many agricultural shows include rabbits and these may be offered for sale.  It is often difficult to properly assess a rabbit in such circumstances and being offered for sale may lead to impulse purchase.

Welfare Organisations: 

Many thousands of unwanted rabbits are handed to welfare organisations every year and these are offered for re-homing.  Most rabbits are adult, although the background of many is unknown or inaccurate.  Staff are generally anxious to ensure that rabbits will be suitably matched to prospective owners and that they have a total commitment to lifetime care for the rabbit.  This often means that adopting a rabbit is a more lengthy process than simple purchase from a shop or breeder.

HOUSING

The most common type of accommodation is a hutch.  This must be properly constructed to ensure that it is weatherproof, secure from predators, has adequate space for the animal to move around in, and is sheltered from the elements.   Many commercially available hutches do not meet these criteria.

Owners should be aware that baby rabbits will grow and a hutch purchased initially may not be suitable for an adult rabbit. The hutch must always be tall enough for the adult rabbit to sit up on its hind legs, stretch out full length or perform three consecutive hops.  The larger breeds will require a much larger hutch (six or seven feet) and where more than one animal is kept together, sufficient space must be available for them all to perform the above behaviours at the same time once they have reached their adult size.

Hutch: 

A hutch should be divided into two compartments, with a strong mesh door to let in the light and a partitioned area for the rabbit to retreat behind.  The wire on the front of the hutch must be made of strong twill mesh and not chicken wire, as this is easily chewed through and is no protection against a determined predator.  The smaller size mesh is advisable, as this also prevents mice from entering and eating the rabbit’s food.  Door catches should be checked regularly to ensure they are secure and the rabbit cannot escape.

The outside hutch should be raised slightly off the ground to give protection from rising damp.  The roof should be slanted and be covered with roofing felt, which will also keep the sides dry. Consideration should be given to protecting the rabbit from the elements at night, ensuring it is kept warm, well ventilated and dry.

There are many types of hutches available although there are alternatives.  A garden shed, a summer house or a child’s Wendy house make an ideal home with a run built on the side, with access via a cat flap.

Choosing the location of the accommodation and the run is important. Hutches should never be facing the midday sun or prevailing weather.  A used garage is unsuitable because of the danger of fumes.

Exercise area: 

The run should be as large as possible and allow the rabbit to run, as opposed to hop.  It may be sited on a paved area to prevent the rabbit from digging and is easily disinfected and cleaned.  A permanent or moveable run may also be sited on the grass, which allows the rabbit to graze. Prevention of escape by digging can be accomplished by either a wire netting floor, or paving the inner periphery of the run. All runs should be provided with a secure lid, as rabbits can easily be taken during the day by flying predators, foxes, dogs and cats.  It is also essential to provide shade and bolt holes.

Bedding: 

Straw or hay may be used.  Barley straw is recommended because it is softer than wheat or oat straw, which may cause damage to the rabbit’s eyes.  Hay for eating should be provided by a separate hay rack.  Shredded paper or wood shavings may be used as bedding, but neither gives much warmth. Both the living area and the sleeping compartment should then be filled with a good quantity of straw or hay.

Toilet Area: 

Rabbits tend to soil in one area only. Wood shavings or shredded paper should be used in this area to soak up urine. Alternatively, a litter tray may be used with non-clumping paper or wood based cat litter. This toilet area should be cleaned daily and bedding changed as necessary when dirty or damp.

Houserabbits: 

Rabbits that live indoors should be provided with a secure area where they can sleep and rest or be confined when left unsupervised.  It may be a conventional hutch or a large wire cage e.g. an indoor dog kennel.  The floor may be covered with a piece of synthetic sheepskin or an off cut of carpet, lino, thick towels or newspaper. A litter tray should be provided as above.  A hay rack, solid water bowl/ bottle and feeding bowl should also be provided.  The cage should not be sited near televisions, speakers, radiators or opposite doors which may cause draughts.

Enrichment: 

Rabbits require mental and physical stimulation and should be provided with toys. Examples are:

• Cardboard boxes filled with hay

• Chimney Pots to act as bolt holes

• A towel to scrabble in

• Cardboard inner of a loo roll or kitchen roll

• Hemp Rope

• Paper bags filled with herbs and fresh hay

FEEDING

Feeding the correct diet to rabbits is fundamental to maintaining health, particularly of the dental and gastro-intestinal systems.

The best diet for rabbits is one that mimics as closely as possible their natural grass-based diet in the wild. Grass is approximately 20-25% crude fibre, 15% crude protein and 2-3% fat. The bulk of the diet of the pet rabbit should consist of grass (fresh or freeze-dried) and/or good quality meadow/Timothy hay, and this should be available at all times. The nutritional quality of grass varies through the year but in general will be better when actively growing.

Green foods are also important and a variety should be fed daily to rabbits of all ages. They should be introduced gradually to weanling rabbits. Examples are broccoli, cabbage, chicory, chard, parsley, watercress, celery leaves, endive, raddichio, bok choy, dock, basil, kale, carrot and beet tops. Wild plants can be given if available, e.g. bramble, groundsel, chickweed, dandelion.  Some wild plants can be toxic to rabbits and caution should be exercised; if in doubt unidentified plant material not included on the list above should not be fed.  All green foods should be washed before feeding.

While this is the rabbit’s normal diet and will suit most rabbits, especially if they are prone to gastro-intestinal disease, it can be expensive and time consuming.  Because of the variable quality of green foods as mentioned above it is also possible that the diet may not be correctly balanced and deficient in some nutrients.  Many owners therefore choose to use commercial diets as part of their rabbit’s food for speed and convenience.  They should be used as an integral part of a diet which is largely hay. 

As well as convenience, commercial diets help to ensure a proper balance of nutritional contents, including vitamins and minerals. When selecting a commercial diet, the fibre level should be at least 14% and not exceed 4% fat. Protein should be limited to 12-14% for maintenance but increased to around 16% during pregnancy, lactation or growth.

Coarse mixtures are attractive to the pet owner, but it must be ensured that a balanced diet is consumed by the rabbit because some will pick out the 'tastier' ingredients.  This is known as 'selective feeding'.  When selective feeding is suspected, owners should ensure that a balanced diet is eaten by feeding small amounts at a time, checking that the previous meal has been consumed and ensuring the food is fed in the quantities appropriate for the weight, life stage and activity of the rabbit.  This is particularly important for rabbits as they have specific dietary requirements such as a requirement for long fibre to prevent dental disease and a calcium:phosphorus ratio of approximately 2:1 to prevent bladder stones and other calcium deposits..

Pellets and extrusions typically include the same raw materials as coarse mixtures, but they are ground prior to manufacture.  Despite their more uniform, less attractive appearance to the pet owner the ground form ensures that a balanced diet is fed, as selective feeding is not possible.

All feeds for rabbits should be completed with “long fibre”, either as hay or commercially available dried grass to ensure maintenance of a healthy gut, to prevent dental overgrowth and prevent behavioural problems.  Hay can be fed from racks to minimise contamination and increase the time spent feeding, providing environmental enrichment.

If feeding a commercial food, the manufacturer’s feeding guidelines for a particular rabbit’s requirements should be followed.  Most companies have a pet care department with an advice line for any owner unsure of what to feed.

Overfeeding of concentrated diets is a significant factor in gastro-intestinal and dental disease, and can also lead to obesity, boredom and behavioural problems.  Obesity can predispose to serious health problems including arthritis, osteoporosis, faecal retention around the perineum, urine scalding, fly strike and metabolic disease.

Fruit should be regarded as a treat item and fed in limited quantities only as it is high in simple sugars and can lead to gastro-intestinal disturbance and dental caries. High fat or high carbohydrate/starchy items should be avoided completely. These include some commercial “treats”, bread, milk, breakfast cereal, nuts, seeds, and chocolate.

Sudden changes in diet must be avoided. Any change in diet should be made gradually over several days to weeks, starting with small amounts of the new item and gradually increasing them, whilst making a corresponding decrease in the unwanted item if necessary. Ad lib hay should always be available, and it is especially important to ensure that weanling rabbits eat plenty of hay. A sudden change in diet and lack of fibre combined with the stress of movement is a significant cause of morbidity and mortality in young rabbits over the period of weaning and moving to a pet shop or new owner. When purchasing a rabbit it is important for a new owner to be informed of the rabbit’s diet so that any changes can be introduced gradually

Frosted or mouldy food, and lawnmower clippings should not be fed as these can lead to severe digestive disturbances.

Dietary supplements consisting of vitamins and minerals are not generally necessary if the correct diet is fed. They should be used only under direction of a veterinary surgeon.

Fresh drinking water must be available at all times. Drinking bottles are easier to keep clean than water bowls, and avoid wetting the dewlap, which can lead to a moist dermatitis.

DISEASE AND VETERINARY CARE

Most common diseases in pet rabbits are preventable with good husbandry and diet. Pet rabbits can live to ten years or more if cared for appropriately.

Rabbits should be checked at least once a day to ensure they are eating, drinking and defaecating normally, and for any overt signs of disease.

It can be difficult to detect signs of pain and distress in rabbits, and disease problems can become advanced before they are detected. This emphasises the need for close observation and monitoring.

It is especially important in summer months to check outdoor rabbits twice a day for signs of fly strike. Faecal soiling (caused by obesity, a low fibre diet, or inability to groom due to dental disease or skeletal problems) and urine scalding (caused by obesity or urinary incontinence) predispose to fly strike. Preventive insecticidal products are also available for use on rabbits at risk, but regular checks should still be carried out.

Correct diet is essential to maintaining health (see feeding recommendations). A largely grass- or hay-based diet high in dietary fibre prevents most gastro-intestinal disease, and provides dental wear. Dental wear is vital to prevent cheek tooth overgrowth and dental disease, which are commonly seen in pet rabbits.

Congenital incisor tooth malocclusion is a common genetic problem in dwarf breeds that requires regular trimming or complete removal of the incisor teeth. Trimming should be performed by a veterinary surgeon every 3-6 weeks. Affected animals should not be bred to avoid perpetuation of this trait.

Obesity is an increasing problem that can be avoided by correct feeding of concentrate diets and ensuring a high fibre intake (see feeding recommendations). Obesity can lead to skeletal problems, urine scalding, faecal soiling and metabolic disease.

Rabbits should be vaccinated against Myxomatosis and Viral Haemorrhagic Disease. The regular veterinary visits that vaccination involves allows for periodic general health checks by a veterinary surgeon.

Routine neutering is recommended for all pet rabbits where breeding is not intended. Un-neutered female rabbits have a very high risk of developing uterine tumours. Neutering of both sexes will also prevent many behavioural problems.

Respiratory disease can be minimised by the use of large well-ventilated accommodation and the avoidance of overcrowding.

Intestinal and hepatic coccidiosis can be a problem especially where large numbers of rabbits are housed together and can be minimised by good hygiene, low stocking densities and the avoidance of faecal build-up.

Only a few veterinary products are licensed for use in rabbits. Informed consent of the owners for extra-label use of veterinary products should be obtained by the veterinary surgeon when prescribing for rabbits.

LEGISLATION

Current legislation: There is currently no welfare legislation which is specific to rabbits.  However rabbits do come under some more general animal welfare legislation.  In particular:

Protection of Animals Act 1911

Pet Animals Act 1951

Welfare of Animals (Transport) Order 1997

Protection of Animals Act:  The Act is the primary animal protection legislation in UK.  While there are some specific offences for some species, it is an offence to cause unnecessary suffering to any domestic animal.  The term is not precisely defined in the Act and in general prosecutions are taken on the back of a statement by a veterinary surgeon that suffering has been caused.

Pet Animals Act:  The Act legislates the business of selling all pet animals.  The Act lays down a licensing requirement on pet shops and prohibits certain actions such as the sale of animals in markets.  Guidelines to the Act have been written by the British Veterinary Association (BVA), Pet Care Trust (PCT), Local Government Association (LGA), Chartered Institute of Environmental Health (CIEH) and others.

Welfare of Animals (Transport) Order:  The Order controls the commercial transport of all animals but does not apply to private persons moving animals.  There is no detail about the transport of rabbits but the principles of good transport such as suitable accommodation, journey planning and proper watering and feeding breaks are set out.

Proposed legislation: The government has begun consultation on an Animal Welfare Bill.  The Bill is to update and consolidate existing legislation as well as improving the effectiveness of prevention of cruelty.  The current legislation outlined above is to be included in the Bill.  The most important additional concepts to be added are a ‘duty of care’ on all animal keepers and some form of control of sanctuaries.  The duty of care is likely to be based on the Five Freedoms which are now internationally accepted as a means of assessment of animal welfare.  The duty of care is to be under-pinned by Codes of Practice.  The format of the proposed definition of, and legislation on sanctuaries is unclear.

A EU Directive on the movement of Companion Animals across national borders into and within the Community will become effective in July 2004.  The aim of the Directive is to control Rabies.  Rabbits are included and will be allowed unrestricted movement as they are rarely infected and are always an end host.  They are likely to be required to have a ‘passport’ similar to that required for a dog or cat.

Enforcement: 

PAC considers that the enforcement of much current animal welfare legislation is of variable quality.  Inspections under the Pet Animals Act are inconsistent, in some local authority areas being undertaken by veterinary surgeons, by dog wardens in others and by environmental health officers in others.  There is no national standard for basic commodities such as size of accommodation and separation of stock from different sources.  PAC considers that government must address the issue of enforcement variability in the Animal Welfare Bill and should examine the case for a specific animal welfare enforcement agency.  PAC considers that a national standard should be written by interested bodies from the industry and enforced under the new legislation.  Existing Codes produced by organisations such as the Pet Care Trust (PCT) should be taken as a basis for discussion with wide consultation across interested bodies including welfare groups, rabbit breeders, and commercial breeders and vendors.

The proposed ‘duty of care’ should be underpinned by Codes of Practice for keepers of pet rabbits, show rabbits and commercial breeders which should be written by a similar joint body.  PAC considers these Codes should be enforced under the Animal Welfare Bill and publicised by interested organisations such as BRC and PCT.  The Codes should be written to make clear the definition of each category of keeper and should include the incidental sale of show rabbits by breeders and the manner in which such sales take place.  Codes should not be prescriptive in nature but should lay down guidelines in broad terms which may be used to underpin the enforcement process.

CONCLUSIONS

While rabbits are an increasingly popular pet, it is clear that their welfare is poorly understood by many of the pet owning public.  Their image of a cheap child’s pet is both financially inaccurate and fails to understand the complex needs of rabbits.

PAC considers that the forthcoming Animal Welfare Bill provides an excellent opportunity to publicise the needs of the pet rabbit and strongly urges legislators at both national and local level to enact and enforce suitable legislation.  A public information campaign to accompany the Bill is an essential part of enforcement and should be encouraged by government.

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